![]() I did this by drilling a hole in the bottom of the access compartment down to the baggage compartment directly below. I also had to find a way to get the cable that connects the shunt to the instrument head down to the baggage compartment where I was going to mount the instrument. This made for a very sturdy mount for the 1 pound shunt. The wood screws protrude into the wood block that the back of the nightstand drawers secure to. ![]() I screwed it to the side of the access compartment. ![]() This places the shunt between the batteries and ground.įirst I had to mount the shunt. The black wire with the blue tape goes on one side of the shunt, and then a cable I made up goes from the other side of the shunt to the terminal with the unmarked black cable on it. The other black wire goes to the 2nd battery. The black wire with the blue tape goes to ground. Luckily for me there is a convenient access panel next to the bed where the negative terminals of the batteries connect to ground. A wire then goes from the shunt to the instrument head to provide power and current measurements. You install the shunt between the negative terminal on the battery and the trailer’s ground. Normally they are built into the instrument but with the current levels involved with two car batteries it’s just not practical. A shunt is used by an ammeter (a device that measures electrical current). The first decision was where to put the shunt. It was a simple install but getting at all the locations I needed to get to was somewhat of a challenge for my bad back. It learns over time and will give you an accurate reading of how much battery power you have left. Rather than measure the voltage level it measure the amount of current that flows into and out of your battery. It’s a simple device that displays the charge state of your battery. I installed a Victron BMV-702 battery monitor. I just completed another mod on my Lance 1995 travel trailer.
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